The History of Ramen: From Tokyo to Melun

The Chinese Roots of Ramen

The story of ramen does not begin in Japan, but in China. Lamian, literally "pulled noodles" in Mandarin, have been prepared for centuries in the northern provinces of China. This noodle-making technique, which involves stretching dough by hand to form long, even strands, is an art in itself that requires years of practice to master.

In the late 19th century, waves of Chinese immigrants settled in Japanese ports, particularly Yokohama, Kobe and Nagasaki. These immigrants brought their culinary traditions, including the noodle soups that would become the foundation of future ramen. The first Chinese restaurants in Yokohama served bowls of wheat noodles in a salty broth, garnished with a few slices of pork and vegetables.

These soups, called "shina soba" (Chinese noodles), were sold cheaply to port and factory workers. They spread rapidly thanks to yatai, mobile street stalls that roamed the streets in the evening, announcing their presence with the distinctive sound of a wooden trumpet or the clatter of chopsticks. At that time, ramen was a popular street food, far from the gastronomic phenomenon it would become.

The transition from Chinese soup to Japanese ramen did not happen overnight. Japanese cooks gradually adapted the recipes to their palate, replacing some ingredients with local products and developing new broth-making techniques. To understand the components that define an authentic bowl of ramen today, read our article on the origins and traditions of ramen.

The Birth of Ramen in Japan

The first official ramen restaurant in Japan is generally attributed to Rai-Rai Ken, which opened in 1910 in Tokyo's Asakusa district. Its founder, Ozaki Kanichi, hired Cantonese cooks to prepare the noodles but adapted the recipes to Japanese tastes using local ingredients such as katsuobushi (dried bonito), kombu (seaweed) and soy sauce. It was this fusion of Chinese technique and Japanese palate that gave birth to ramen as we know it.

In the 1920s and 1930s, ramen spread across Japan's major cities. Each region began developing its own interpretation of the dish, laying the foundations of the regional styles we know today. In Sapporo, in the cold north of Hokkaido, cooks added miso to create a more nourishing dish. In Fukuoka, in the south, long-boiled pork bones gave birth to tonkotsu. In Tokyo, soy sauce remained the dominant tare, creating classic shoyu ramen.

Ramen remained a relatively niche dish until World War II. It was street food, appreciated by workers and students, but not yet considered a proper part of Japanese gastronomy. It would take the post-war period for ramen to experience its true rise and become the national phenomenon it is today.

This regional diversity is one of the great treasures of Japanese ramen. To learn more about the differences between the major styles, read our complete guide to ramen styles, from tonkotsu to miso, shoyu and shio.

The Post-War Explosion

The end of World War II marks a decisive turning point in the history of ramen. Japan, devastated and in the midst of reconstruction, faced an unprecedented food shortage. American aid supplied wheat in massive quantities, and the Japanese, who had until then primarily grown rice, turned to noodles as a cheap source of calories. Ramen stalls multiplied across the country, offering complete, nourishing meals for just a few yen.

It was in this context that a revolutionary invention was born. In 1958, Momofuku Ando, a Taiwanese-born businessman based in Japan, developed the first instant noodles under the brand "Chikin Ramen". His idea was simple but brilliant: pre-cook the noodles and dehydrate them by frying so that you only needed to add boiling water. This invention democratised ramen on a global scale and is considered one of the greatest food innovations of the 20th century.

Alongside instant ramen, artisanal ramen experienced its golden age. The 1960s and 1970s saw the emergence of ramen masters, the ramen-ya, who devoted their lives to perfecting a single recipe. These craftsmen elevated ramen to the status of culinary art, with broths simmering for days and closely guarded secret techniques. Juzo Itami's 1985 film "Tampopo" perfectly captures this Japanese obsession with the perfect bowl of ramen.

The 1990s and 2000s marked the internationalisation of ramen. The first specialist restaurants opened in New York, Los Angeles, London and Sydney. Ramen, carried by the wave of Japanese pop culture, manga and anime, conquered the Western world. Dedicated magazines and blogs appeared, and rankings of the best ramen restaurants became essential references for food lovers worldwide.

Ramen Crosses the Oceans: Arrival in France

In France, ramen long remained in the shadow of sushi and yakitori, which dominated the perception of Japanese cuisine for decades. The first specialist ramen restaurants only opened in Paris in the early 2010s, driven by a new generation of Japanese and Franco-Japanese chefs who wanted to introduce this lesser-known aspect of their gastronomy.

The Opera district, nicknamed "Little Tokyo" by Parisians, was the birthplace of ramen in France. Addresses like Kotteri Ramen Naritake and Ippudo introduced the French to long-simmered broths and al dente noodles. The success was immediate: the queues outside these restaurants became legendary, proof that the French public was ready for this new culinary experience.

Gradually, ramen culture spread beyond Paris, reaching major provincial cities and then medium-sized towns. Seine-et-Marne, and Melun in particular, did not escape this wave. The demand for authentic Japanese cuisine, prepared with the same care and rigour as in the best shops in Tokyo, paved the way for restaurants like Yoki Ramen, which perpetuate this culinary tradition in the heart of the department.

Ramen in Melun: Yoki Ramen and Tradition

When Yoki Ramen opened its doors at 31 Rue du General de Gaulle in Melun, the ambition was clear: to offer the residents of Melun and Seine-et-Marne authentic ramen, prepared with the same rigour and respect for tradition as in the finest shops in Japan. No compromises on broth quality, no shortcuts on cooking times, no powders or concentrates to replace artisanal work.

Every day, our cooks prepare the broths through a process that begins well before the restaurant opens. Pork and chicken bones are selected, blanched and then set to simmer for twelve hours over a continuous flame. This cooking time allows the extraction of collagen, gelatine and aromas that give the broth its depth and silky texture. The tare are prepared separately, toppings are made on-site, and noodles are chosen for their ability to hold up in broth.

Melun occupies a privileged geographical position in Seine-et-Marne, close to Fontainebleau and its forests, at the crossroads of several population centres. This location allows Yoki Ramen to serve a varied clientele: local families, office workers on lunch breaks, students, passing visitors and local businesses that call upon our catering service for their events.

The history of ramen, from Yokohama to Tokyo, from Sapporo to Fukuoka, from Paris to Melun, is the story of a dish that transcends borders and cultures. Every bowl served at Yoki Ramen carries this centuries-old heritage, adapted to our local standards and quality requirements. To discover all our preparations, check out our menu or visit the restaurant directly. To learn more about Japanese culinary culture, visit the official Japanese tourism website.